Thursday, June 25, 2009

PRIVACY-Tommy Cox/Red Models

Suit by Dior Homme; shirt by ZZegna;

hoisery by Wolford; tie by Etro;

vintage shoes from Yves Saint Laurent; gloves by H&M


Left: Trench coat and trouser, both by Burberry Prorsum;

shirt and hat, both by Etro; gloves by H&M

Right: Jacket and shorts, both by Tim Hamilton;

shirt and shoes, both by Burberry Prorsum;

suspenders by Jean Paul Gaultier;

stockings by Wolford; cane, stylist's own



Leather waistcoat by Thomas Engel Hart;

wristband by Filippa K; chain, stylist's own



Left: Dress from Housing Works; hoisery by Wolford

Right: Suit, ascot and shirt, all by Etro; scarf by Tim Hamilton;

suspenders, stylist's own; gloves by H&M


Cape by Attachment; wristband by Filippa K;

cummerbund by Tim Hamilton; trouser by Gucci



Left: Body fragrance by Yves Saint Laurent

Right: Bustier by Patrik Rzepski;

customized body suit and hoisery by Wolford;

vintage shoes from Yves Saint Laurent; gloves by H&M



Left: Trouser by Yves Saint Laurent;

suspenders by Jean Paul Gaultier

Right: Tee shirt and trouser, both by Tim Hamilton


AGENT: George Brown
IMAGES: Bell Soto-www.bellsoto.com
FASHION EDITOR/CASTING: John Tan
GROOMING: Anna Bernabe for Davines
-www.annabernabe.com

CLOTHING:
Dior Homme-www.diorhomme.com
ZZegna-www.zegna.com
Etro-www.etro.com
Yves Saint Laurent-www.ysl.com
Burberry Prorsum-www.burberry.com
Tim Hamilton-www.timhamilton.com
Jean Paul Gaultier-www.jeanpaulgaultier.com
Thomas Engel Hart-www.thomasengelhart.com
Attachment-www.totemfashion.com
Housing Works-www.shophousingworks.com
Patrik Rzepski-www.patrikrzepski.com
Wolford-www.wolford.com
Filippa K-www.filippak.com
Gucci-www.gucci.com
H&M-www.hm.com

Monday, June 15, 2009

THOMAS ENGEL HART-Jules Hamilton/Adam







AGENT: Kevin
IMAGES: Henry Hargreaves-www.henryhargreaves.com
CASTING/STYLING/PRODUCER: John Tan
GROOMING: Yinna Wang-www.yinnawang.com
Special thanks to Corinna Ellen Springer and Michael Schwartz at Nouveau PR for their support.

CLOTHING:
Thomas Engel Hart F/W 2009-www.thomasengelhart.com

10 QUESTIONS WITH
THOMAS ENGEL HART
Designer: Thomas Engel Hart
Age: 36
Homebase: Originally from New York City, now based in Paris, France
Number of Collections: Relaunch in 2008, developing the 3rd

1. Could you tell us about your background and what led you to a career in fashion?
I was born in New York in the 1970s—lucky me, huh? I always was into clothing and getting dressed up—this must have reached its zenith in the '90s when all we ever did was get ready to go out, go out, stumble hime, and then make some new clothes so we could get ready to go out. Anyway, at some point I must have realized the eventual futility in all this so decided to do my best to apply my passion to the workplace and to this end I wound up at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology).

2. Since you were born and raised in NYC, do you miss being in NYC? What are some of your fond memories?
Honestly, New York is a part of me so I can't say I miss it when I'm not there. That said I'm always happy to hear the first rude taxi driver, eat my first slice, and see my favorite skyline. My fondest memories? My grandmother in her apartment at 34th and 3rd Avenue, the Pyramid club, and one night my last visit, walking across town at dusk in a light rain, which made everything look like some Steichen print.

3. As a graduate from FIT, do you see a difference between fashion students today vs. when you were in school? What advice would you give to the students who are aiming for a career path such as yours?
Work your ass off, and then some. And if you don't feel it—don't do it.

4. You are one of the select few designers who have also styled editorials for fashion magazines on occasion...could we get some insight as to your process in taking on these assignments?
I love clothing and style so really, styling is as valid a way for me to talk about my ideas as my collection—it's just a different set of elements being used. And it takes less time, which is great as well. When I do a story, it's out of love for fashion and images, really—I am a big fan of photography and I am lucky to be able to work with some great photographers for these projects.

5. For three years, you were at the helm of relaunching Thierry Mugler Homme as creative director. Could you tell us your experience working there and why you feel this is the time to move on and reintroduce your collection again?
Doing Mugler was great, but there is a point when you need to ask yourself, where is this going? And depending on the answer, you make your decision. I am certainly very proud of my work there and wouldn't change it for the world, but after 3 years I knew that the future for me was not there. So doing my own collection came naturally, as what I do is make clothing!

6. Your current and previous collections have elements of subverted culture as their themes—bondage in the current collection and a Japanese typographical motif mixed with glam in the previous collection. It seems most designers have a connection with the dark side vs. the light side. Will we ever see the light from you?
If you want to see the light, I think there's plenty of "happy" designers out there...but I don't really consider my universe "dark" anyway—it's playful, cultured and fun. Life is full of contrasts, and I dig a campy old horror movie as much as the next guy, but I also consider children the most amazing thing in the world. So there you go—I am not afraid to dibble and dabble in the influences in my creative universe, to come up with an exotic cocktail of dark and light for your fashion enjoyment!

7. Youth and rebellion have always been strong emphases in menswear fashion, yet a lot of the young guys cannot afford the designer collections that are created with them in mind. What are your views regarding this?
This is nothing new, although designers sure do love to wax poetic about "the cusp of youth," et cetera (although I am not one of said designers). Having been young, poor and way into fashion, I think that young people have a helluva lot of stuff on their side and that with a little ingenuity and even less money they can look pretty fucking cool.

8. As a fashion designer, there are many aspects of the job that most ordinary folk are not aware of that come with the territory...designing is only fraction of the process, from the organic creative thought process, sketching, selecting fabrics and construction to presentation, press/sales, production and shipping. Could you tell me which phase you enjoy the most and which phase you dislike the most and why?
I love it when we receive a fabric and then it goes from being some flat, rolled-up tube in the corner to some cool jacket hanging on the rack—I love to gather all these elements (inspiration, fabrics, buttons, leathers...) and then transform them into a three-dimensional form that can go on a human body. What do I like the least? Maybe the week after the show, when all the craziness subside and not yet begun again...that's my down time.

9. How do you determine which model is right for your image of your collection? Is it purely based on a look or personality...or both?
They have to look good and be cool—there's not much question about it. Thomas Engel Hart guys are intelligent, cool and sexy—be they models or whatever the fuck they do! So yeah, it's both. A little personality will take you a long way in this world.

10. Can a designer be designing for the young forever? How would you like to see yourself evolve as you mature with age?
I hope it happens organically—I don't really think "young"when I design, since as I said before, I'm not particularly obsessed with youth—I'm obsessed by personalities, really. Personal expression, strenght of character—that's what gets me out of bed in the morning. Youth is a wonderful gift while you've got it but once it's gone, well life sure doesn't end! I think that cool is without age.

11. Bonus Question: What is your motto in life?
Fuck 'em!


Friday, June 12, 2009

SHIPLEY & HALMOS



In Their Own Words, In Their Own Collection:
10 QUESTIONS WITH
JEFF & SAM
Designers: Sam Shipley and Jeff Halmos
Homebase: New York City
Number of Collections: Developing the 5th

1. Of the many strenghts of Shipley & Halmos' collections, one factor that has always stood out is the narrative behind every collection. From the invitations and look books down to the staging of the show's set design, everything is always meticulously thought out. Could you provide some insights as to how these narratives/concepts are created and where the inspirations come from?
Jeff Halmos: Developing concepts for both the season and for our overall brand aesthetic is probably my favorite part of working on Shipley & Halmos. When Sam and I have a clear understanding of a project we're working on, we always love the outcome. As a small brand, you have to be extra creative in your approach to branding. We like presenting our ideas in interesting ways, which is why our look books, show invites, set design, etc., are always thought through extra carefully. We always—always—have the brand in mind.

2. There's modernity and sophistication to the "Individualists" Fall/Winter 09 Collection. Could you describe to us the decisions taken behind the evolution of Shipley & Halmos' direction?
Sam Shipley: Jeff and I decided at the very beginning that we would create things as we see fit. At the point in time of designing Fall we wanted to create a collection that felt powerful. We want people to feel like they can accomplish anything. It's sort of a no-nonsense collection for us.

3. Some fashion critics have criticized the new approach for being too drastic in contrast to the previous works. Would Shipley & Halmos like to take this opportunity to rebut?
JH: For whatever reasons, the way we presented our Fall collection got very interesting reactions from people. We took a conceptual approach to the show—styling, music, lighting, etc. Our collection itself had a very similar mixture of elements from past seasons, just styled and presented in a more directional way. Some loved it, some didn't, but everyone came away with a strong feeling or opinion one way or another. We like that.



4. The first impression is always the lasting one; that being said, do you still find there are comparisons between Shipley & Halmos' vs. Trovata's (your former label) aesthetic?
SS: Honestly, I don't hear about comparisons that much. I don't really pay much mind to it anyway. Having helped to create both, I know that what we're doing now is completely different.

5. In terms of menswear duos, in New York, besides your brand, there's Duckie Brown and Rag & Bone and in Europe, Viktor & Rolf and DSquared2 come to mind. In the case of Shipley & Halmos, how do you keep your working relationship fresh? Have there been opposing views as to where the direction should go?
JH: There are always differences of opinion. If anyone says otherwise, they're lying. We might go back and forth discussing a small design element—move the waist up, narrow leg, black vs. white, the chicken or the egg. Those always get resolved easily. When it comes to where we want to take the brand and our company, we rarely disagree. We see eye to eye. That's why we've been able to stay friends throughout the time we've worked together. That and pranking the solicitors that call our office every day.

6. Define Shipley & Halmos' guy of the future...who is he and what's his background? Where would you both envision him being seen wearing your collection?
SS: Our guy likes the following: cheeseburgers, Cartier watches, Bowie, the DIA:Beacon, boots, The Daily Show, March Madness, New York, 2001: A Space Odyssey, dogs, his job, coffee, Gerhard Richter, subtlety, Fall, I think you get the picture...



7. What is your view on the state of independent designers in today's economy? Does fashion still matters?
JH: People still need to buy clothes. It's a question of how many pieces they buy each season and at what price. To us, this recession is going to make designers large and small think more strategically about their direction. Those that have no idea where they're going will fail.

8. Your brand recently was asked to participate with Uniglo to design a line of womenswear. How did this collaboration come about? Do you both foresee this as a way for younger designers to thrive in the business?
SS: That came about from some great people working together. We loved working with Uniglo and the end product turned out awesome. We certainly benefited from working with them. I think as far as this being viable business strategy, it's tough to say. There's a lot of these projects out there and at some point the consumer is gonna want just the normal brand.

9. Any advice you both could give to the new kids who are striving for a successful career like yours? What are the pros and cons one should be aware of as an independent designer?
JH: My advice would be to never lose site of the financial position of your company. It's the least glamorous part of being an independent designer, but arguably the most important. Side note: I still hesitate to call my career successful. That really depends on how you define the word "success". But thanks for the flattery :)



10. Here's To Future Days is the theme of this feature—where do you foresee your collection heading? Should we expect to see spacesuits in your future collections?
SS: HA! Maybe in 2052, but not in the near future. We got a lot of "future" talk with our Fall 2009 collection when really we were just looking at a mood for inspiration. We're inspired by so many things—past, present, and future—that we're never gonna go one way or the other. We hope our collection just feel pleasantly present tense.

11. Bonus Question: What's your motto in life?
JH: To never have regrets.
SS: Create, Create, Create.

IMAGES: Bell Soto-www.bellsoto.com
FASHION EDITOR/PRODUCER: John Tan
GROOMING: Katie Chua-www.katiechua.com
TEXT EDITOR: Jonathan Shia
Special thanks to Heather Hayhurst and Stella Ishii at THE NEWS
 for their support.

Thursday, June 11, 2009

Random Shot—Jules Hamilton/Adam


Polaroid taken on set during a fashion shoot for the blog 
by photographer Henry Hargreaves

Full Name: Jules Hamilton
Homebase: Manhattan, New York City
Age: 20
Discovery: My girlfriend placed my picture on modelmayhem.com. A couple of agencies contacted me and expressed interest. I chose from a few that I met and liked. I decided to go with Adam-A new agency.
What interested you about modeling: I am a film student so I work with cameras and actors a lot and so I am accustomed to shoots in general. My goal is to become a film director one day. I enjoy being in a  shoot environment  and being with creative people so modeling seems like a natural move for me. It would be great to make some money as well so I can have some funds for my film projects! :)
What is your favorite film: Stanley Kubrick's "Barry Lyndon" or Fernando Meirelles' "City Of God".
How did you enjoyed your very first editorial shoot? Love it! It was a very interesting narrative.
Expectations: I am on hold for Prada...will see how things work out! I am looking forward to traveling, that's for sure.

AGENT: Kevin
IMAGE: Henry Hargreaves-www.henryhargreaves.com
CASTING/STYLING: John Tan
GROOMING: Yinna Wang-www.yinnawang.com

CLOTHING: 
Thomas Engel Hart-www.thomasengelhart.com

Monday, June 8, 2009

CAMP MARTIN-Martin Gruca/Ford Men


Jacket and windbreaker by C.P. Company

backpack by Lesportsac

straw hat with ribbons, stylist's own 



Shirt and printed tee by C.P. Company

pouches with mirrors by Acne Jeans



Shirt and trouser by C.P. Company; Indian head dress, stylist's own



Vest, shirt and shorts, all by C.P. Company

customized crown, stylist's own



Left: Windbreaker, shirt and trouser, all  by C.P. Company

scarf, stylist's ownsneakers by Vans  

Right:Jacket by C.P. Company; briefs by Acne Jeans

magnifying glass, stylist's own



Trench by C.P. Company; sneakers by Vans

eyewear by Incognito Eyewear


Body suit by Quiksilver; flip flops, Martin's own


Summer fragrance by Eternity for Men Calvin Klein


Shorts by Acne Jeans; sunglasses by Incognito Eyewear

straw hat with ribbons, stylist's own


AGENT: Jesse Simon
IMAGES: Andrew Burmeister-www.andrewburmeister.com
FASHION EDITOR/CASTINGJohn Tan

CLOTHING:
C.P. Company-www.cpcomapny.com
Vans-www.vans.com
Quiksilver-www.quiksilver.com
Incognito Eyewear-www.incognitoeyewear.com
Acne Jeans-www.acnestudios.com
Lesportsac-www.lesportsac.com
Eternity for Men Calvin Klein-www.calvinklein.com

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

TROVADOR-Keenan Brand/Ford Men


Vintage tattoo shirt by Jean Paul Gaultier; armbands with stripes 

by Bernhard Willhelm; lycra leggings by American Apparel



Left: Long sleeve shirt by Petar Petrov; printed t-shirt 

and pajama trouser, both by John Galliano

Right: Vintage trouser with suspenders by Jean Paul Gaultier

bow tie by Burberry Prorsum; bowler hat, stylist's own



Vintage dress shirt by Comme des Garcons; long sleeve pullover 

by Tim Hamiltontrouser by Bless; socks with stripes by Bernhard Willhelm



Left: Shirt by Thomas Engel Hart; vest by John Galliano

tuxedo trouser by Burberry Prorsum

Right: Striped pullover by Tim Hamilton

trouser by John Galliano; scarf by Masatomo



Shirt by Nice Collective; ruffled collar by John Galliano


Full Name: Keenan Harrison Brand
Homebase: Atlanta, Georgia
Age: 17
Discovery: I walked into Ford Models LA, had some pictures taken and I was signed the next day. 
Prior Experience: I have been a professional actor since the age of 12. I appeared  in Oliver Stone's film W., played the role of Marvin Pierce Bush in the film and also a few television commercials.
Expectations: I am looking forward to the shows in Milan and Paris. It's my very first time going to Europe! Acting is still an option but modeling is my primary focus now.

AGENTS: Sam Doerfler/Jesse Simon/
Emily Novak/Blake Woods
IMAGES: Bell Soto-www.bellsoto.com
FASHION EDITOR/CASTING/CONCEPT: John Tan
SET DESIGN: Christian Batenhorst
GROOMING: Hiro Yonemoto for MAC Cosmetics
-www.hiroshiyonemoto.com